Journal Quilt chapter two

14 May, Chapter two in the Georgian quilt saga. Fabric and threads soaked up some Saperavi 2013 - an even darker red which qualifies as a "black" wine. Then they dried inside, and travelled captive in my backpack. First set of stitching finished at the last bushcamp in Georgia. Next step to heat set the colour and onward.

N 41.37.11 E 45.55.22 Journal Quilt (only a memory)

Signagi. Since we entered Georgia almost two weeks ago, I've been working on a cool square for my quilt. I used some wool and silk threads to make stitches suggesting the mountains of Georgia and the plan was to dye the square with a Georgian red wine (the different fiber types would accept the dye differently) and then do some other stitching on top.

The square sat in it's wine bath last evening - Pheasant's Tears Saperavi 2012 - and was put on the outside line to dry. Sadly, it made it's escape during the night and is now happily settled on the neighbors roof. I figure the local birds will end up with some upscale fibers for their nests.

Plan B. Bag of fabric and threads are going looking for a glass of wine today. This is probably a better story anyway. 

Journal Quilt Armenia

Quite excited about this next square. Our bush camp just inside the Georgia border had a large flock of sheep as we arrived. If you look very carefully at the landscape, you can see them heading quickly home. I harvested some wool- the gorse bushes were ideal for hanging onto the loose bits. Then here in Armenia I washed it well and loosely felted it. It is beautifully soft. What you see is a woolen flower. To come will be the center of the flower - an Armenian coin once we are past Azerbaijan. Also I have three little circle things I picked up at the market which are for sanding small things. The hole in the center means they get to be attached and become the center of smaller flowers.

Quite pleased with the felting process as I had nothing but soap water and a plastic bag.

Three days in Yerevan N 40.11.33 E 44.28.57

We drove into Armenia on the main (only) road from Georgia. Rugged mountain pass, road probably hasn't been repaired since the soviet era. Tiny communities clinging to the hillsides. Terraced fields where cows pretend to be mountain goats. Abandoned buildings and factories.

Yerevan, the capital. Huge opera house and stadiums built by philanthropic overseas foundations that the country can't afford to keep repaired. Brand new buildings that locals can't afford to live in with high end shops for tourists to hopefully spend their money. Our guide says it is difficult to know how many people live here because most have moved for work.

A trip through the history museum yesterday - the Mesopotamia I learned about in school as the place civilization started is partly Armenia and partly Iran. Artisans here were making jewelry 3 million BC. And arms, first in rock the bronze then iron. Yerevan is the oldest city in the world - written proof of date anyway. First country to be officially Christian. Their written language is from about 400 AD and essentially unchanged.

However, Armenia is another country like Georgia - on the route from east to west for any conqueror. Relatively stable during the Ottoman Empire, population systematically killed in 1915 when Lenin and Ataturk decided borders and then again in the 1990s as the USSR was breaking up. Turkey claims western parts of Armenia and refuses to admit that the 1915 genocide happened. Azerbaijan refuses to accept that Nagorno Karabakh is independent and negotiations over boundaries from the 1994 war have still not been settled. The "cease fire line" is quite different depending on who's map you look at.

That said, other than being able to say I've been here, I'm not sure why we did. Three days in a hotel with nothing particular to do.

Posting my photos and then deleting them from my camera as Azerbaijan does not wish to believe that Armenia and the genocide existed. Google Armenia Genocide for info.

Working hard to get dinner made.
Unnoticed in the background are the sheep
that contributed to Armenia's square on
my journal quilt

Mikkel's first find of an interesting
creature to share with the group.

Having tea in one of the tourist stops in
downtown Yerevan

Genocide memorial

Throughout Asia this was how utensils were placed

In search of the local lemonade

Sew I travel (journal quilt)

My plan is to quilt my way through this year of travel and collect memories in a tangible way. Here's the first row (5 squares) and plans for the next two.

I started with a home square. Maple leaf and Canadian penny (found in the yard and actually the last year they were produced). Then one with a quote about travel and some Alberta wild roses and the latitude and longitude of the Calgary airport.

Next are squares reminding me of Turkey. First fabric dyed with Turkish coffee and welcome greetings in Turkish and Kurdish remind me of our carpet purchasing experience. The flowers to remember them everywhere we went. The next fabric is dyed with Turkish saffron and is the protection from the evil eye - still unfinished as I'm looking for dark blue thread for the outer ring. The center is a small denomination Turkish coin. And the third one is a generous donation by a fellow traveller, Mark, of his burlap wine bag. I snazzied it up with silk thread called "grape harvest". What else would do?

The off white square has been stitched with threads and is ready to be dyed with wine - there is a home made wine tasting planned for the next week. I'm hoping for some interesting colours for the background and will then add some stitched memories.

Next is a lovely hand woven and hand embroidered table runner and small square coasters. We chanced upon this shop on a street of local art and another lovely experience happened. The lady who spoke English wrote a greeting in Georgian and translated it to English for me. While we were talking, I gave her one of the Canadian flag pins and she was quite overwhelmed that I would give her a present. One of the small squares will remind me of our time in the old town of Tbilisi today, and this chance to meet a local lady. Probably a small denomination Georgian coin will be added too.

The last photo is a postcard I found today. Original painting was done by the shopkeeper's husband. How could I not have this little old quilting lady, complete with Singer treadle machine?

Stay tuned.

Week three N 41.41.45 E 44.48.44

Batumi, Mestia, Kutaisi, Gori, Kasbeki and Tbilisi.

We crossed the border at Georgia's Black Sea port then headed north into the mountains - the road was narrow and winding. Crazy drivers passing, rock falls (including one that hit a car, put a hole in the side and pushed it almost over the edge) and road wash outs. Then we came south again to Gori and the Prometheus Caves. North along the Georgia military highway to Kazbeki, nine km from the Russian border and site of the highest monastery in Georgia. Finally south into the capital, Tbilisi.

Georgia is a small country with a very old civilization (there is record of grape cultivation near Tbilisi 8000 years ago). Unfortunately, it is on the easiest route for any conqueror to take on the way from Asia to Europe. The last time was 2008 when Russia invaded two areas of Georgia and remain to this day.

Impressions: mountains, lush and green, buildings unfinished or bombed, subsistence farming, gas half the price of Turkey but no WC or snacks at the service stations, food fresh and plentiful.

Wine, religion and the national identity. Georgians take pride in the fact that they have been cultivating wine for 8000 years and that the way they make their wine is different than the newer European wines. It is interrelated with their strong orthodox faith which goes back to to the 400s AD. Surrounded and often conquered by Islamic fighters, the drinking of wine was a symbol of solidarity. Even when religion was suppressed during the soviet era, wine was like a secret signal.