The last five squares are complete and four others have had some additions made. I’ve had the luxury of using computer, sewing machine, fabric paint, and all the other bits of interesting stuff in my stash, so these squares are a bit less rugged than some of the others. After the backing is added, there will be some final embellishment (sort of like the almost last fitting of a custom made dress), but I’m really enjoying the look of this year long project.
N 40.22.33 E 49.51.08 Azerbaijan
We only spent a few days in Azerbaijan as we raced across the desert to try and book a ferry crossing of the Caspian Sea. Calypso, our trusty truck, only had a visa of 72 hours before being fenced in at the dock in Baku. Best fun was exploring the mud craters just outside the city and I decided that I would wait until I could print a photo of one of them on fabric before creating Azerbaijan’s square. I also created two “flames”, the symbol everywhere of Azerbaijan’s oil industry. I found it fascinating to discover that the pattern we call “paisley” in the west is called “flame” along the silk road. The beautiful lambs’ wool scarf I bought in the old city of Baku is patterned with these paisley flames as well and was what I wore with my basic black dress for Christmas dinner in Christchurch. I was fascinated by this coin, that on first look, appears so similar to the Canadian Toonie.
S 46.55.35 E 167.46.48 Stewart Island, New Zealand
My muttonbird scrub leaves arrived home in a parcel rather than being mailed and I had to coat them with some matte medium so that I could stitch them to the quilt. This is probably going to be the most fragile square of the entire quilt. It brings a big smile when I think about the day we watched a kiwi for the longest time then wandered through Ulva Island checking out the other birds and plants that thrive there. I harvested two leaves, then used the ink of the Miru tree to write my message. Christy, our guide smilingly autographed it, AND posed for a photo. Then, the local postmaster agreed to hand cancel the leaf after convincing me that I didn’t need to pay the entire cost of postage, that a ten cent stamp would give the idea.
N 22.17.59 E 114.10.03 Hong Kong (retail therapy)
At the beginning of our trip, I had thought that one square might be created from labels I could liberate from garments I would purchase along our journey. What I found was that the garments I purchased were handmade and didn’t come with a label! And to be honest, I was more focused on fabric in all its shapes, sizes and colour rather than mundane clothes.
However, our stay in Hong Kong was in a very elegant hotel along Canton Road in Kowloon; where all the western fashion designers have their flagship stores to attract the wealthy (primarily Chinese) visitors to Hong Kong. I had a great morning wandering the street and taking photos of the shops and was attracted to the colours of one dress in the H&M window. An hour later, I had a selection of tops that were a little different but also very wearable back home in Northern Alberta. Each item had a multitude of labels with information in all the languages that this international store does business. And what I found so fascinating on arriving home is that the colours that were so prevalent in Hong Kong are not the fashion colours I am seeing in Canada – perhaps I am a year ahead?
I used the garment labels to create a fabric square (something I could not have done on the road without sewing machine and stabilizer), then added coins from Hong Kong, Macao and an ancient Chinese coin from the night market. Just for good measure, I added the label from our bottled water in the hotel room.
N 53.34.06 W 113.31.26 Edmonton (things will wear out)
This photo of my boots was taken while I sat on the dock waiting for transportation to Limbang (and a hot shower and clean clothes) in Sabah, Borneo. The two days of heat, humidity and muddy, technical hiking in the tropical rainforest had been fascinating but exhausting. For some weeks, I had thought that perhaps it would be time to replace my faithful boots (bought in 2008) when we arrived in Edmonton. There were areas on the inside that were frayed and I was starting to get blisters. However, as I sat on the dock, I realized the question was not “should I” but “will they survive until we get to Edmonton in three weeks”. The leather had split on the folds, the stitching holding the heel to the rest of the boot had rotted and the sole was starting to separate from the rest of the boot. I did not dare wash the boots as it was probably the mud that was holding everything together. My only other choice of footwear was sandals or pretty yellow dressup shoes. Yes, we had become experts in traveling light.
I have many great memories of where these boots have taken me, but I left them at Campers Village in Edmonton when I bought another pair of boots, taking only one shoe lace as a reminder.
On reflection, what fascinates me is how little of what I took on our year of travel did wear out, considering that I followed the suggestion to only bring old, comfortable items that you wouldn’t mind losing or staining or breaking. I’ve included a few other things that also wore out:
• The light blue Canadian flag material was wrapped around the handle of my backpack and took a lot of wear and tear when carrying the bag rather than using the backpack straps.
• The purple ruffle flower is from my purple swimsuit, worn regularly since 2006 – even Speedo fabric will eventually start to disintegrate - and it was last worn on the Franklin River under a wetsuit.
• The center of the flower is the metal disc from my thimble that finally needed to be replaced in Nelson, New Zealand after more than ten years of use.
• The rather well used Canadian flag pin lived on my hat for the entire trip. It was actually from a package of pins I got from Ollie Currie (Swim Alberta) in 2010 after Peace River hosted the Alberta Summer Games.
For the record, the only other things that wore out were:
• Our travelling coffee pot was replaced in Turkey, given away in Malaysia and replaced again in New Zealand.
• My water bottle broke in Uzbekistan, was replaced in China, wore out and was replaced in Christchurch.
• My smartphone became very forgetful and grumpy but limped through to Kolkata where I purchased a small notebook computer, then finally died two weeks before we got home. It just had had too much of unpredictable power surges.
N 56.11.18 W 117.35.56 Grimshaw (Home Again)
When I was creating the first square on the quilt, a pieced maple leaf block, I thought that perhaps the final block would be another maple leaf motif. On reflection, though, my home does not have native maple trees, which only grow in Ontario and Quebec. Northern Alberta trees are poplar and spruce, our provincial flower which grows along the paths we walk is the Alberta Wild Rose, and the most successful plant in my yard is Snow in the Mountain (a pretty variegated leaved plant that some consider a weed). My coming home square uses the silk that travelled with me for the year and is featured in some of the other squares but it is painted with fabric paint that stayed home to become the Wild Roses. The background square is a photo I took two years ago of my Snow in the Mountain gloriously taking over a flower bed to the exclusion of the most determined weeds. The stem of the roses is sari silk yarn that I bought on impulse online some years ago.
As I was creating squares on the road, there were some things that I couldn’t complete with the small sewing kit I was carrying. I’ve also finished four of those squares. I suspect that there are a few more squares that will get a bit of extra additions as I sit and look at them. The squares that have objects to be added like shells or stones will need to wait for the final finishing touches.
N 41.41.45 E 44.48.44 Tblisi, Georgia
The hand woven and hand embroidered square has been patiently waiting to have some machine stitching for the Georgian Cross. Hand stitching just disappeared into the thick cotton threads. It’s hard to see in the photo, but the square now has the outline of both St. George’s Cross (for the state) and St. Ninian’s Cross (symbolizing the religion of Georgia)
N 27.19.56 E 88.36.48 Gangtok (Sikkim), India
The fabric was from the market in Gangtok and the frame of the spider web is hemp from a shirt I bought at the market in Kolkata, but the threads themselves needed to be some of the glittery almost transparent shimmer thread that I’ve finally added to the square. I still remember how beautiful and dramatic the spider webs were as we travelled through Asia. A photo I found of my first encounter with leeches when we explored the zoo in Gangtok was also the hint I needed of where some lovely fabric and a beautiful scarf came from.
N 15.52.48 E 108.20.22 Hoi-An, Vietnam
All this square needed was a bit of machine stitching with pale pink thread to finish it off.
S 43.44.15 E 170.06.03 Mt Cook National Park, New Zealand
I’ve added the foot fleece clouds to the background. This very experienced foot fleece has traveled from New Zealand home in 2009, then to Scotland, Iceland, Haida Gwaii, then on our year of travel. The last bit of this package got wet in a backpack on one of our last treks in Borneo and has even been partly wet felted.
Next is to take the backing fabric I painted on the back sidewalk of our hostel in Perth, add some words and memories, then sandwich everything together. Quilting is going to be a combination of machine and hand and in the spirit of more is better, of course there will be some final bling to be added. Stay tuned.
Showing posts with label Gangtok. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Gangtok. Show all posts
Friday, 24 April 2015
Thursday, 28 August 2014
N 22.33.30 E 88.21.15 Two weeks in India: from Nepal to the Tropics
We travelled through North East India August 3 to 19 from the border crossing near Siliguri to the hill stations of Darjeeling and Gangtok (Sikkim) then south toward Kolkata where we left our faithful Calypso as well as one of our crew, Nico. From here on, it will be public transport.
Actually, it felt more like one more week in Tibet and then a week travelling through the plains of India. The people around Darjeeling and also the entire state of Sikkim are predominantly Nepali or Tibetan. Food and architecture reflected what we had seen in Tibet and indeed many of the monasteries that were destroyed during the Cultural Revolution were transferred to these areas. Even the dominant language is Nepali rather than English or Hindi. The other dominant presence is the British Raj. Uniforms of the police and the army are reminiscent of 1930s Britain and were worn with pride by all. We listened to morning practices in the stadium of a very British sounding pipe and drum band. The best schools remain those set up by the British and all students wear formal uniforms, including blazer, tie and polished black shoes for the upper classmen.
What I wish to remember:
Darjeeling. Tea estates, incredible mountain scenery, Himalayan Mountain Institute. Trekking along the Nepal border (literally criss crossing it along the 8 km hike uphill and then back) in Singalia National Park including breakfast, tea break(s) and lunch with local people. Discovering Ava Devi’s thread paintings.
Gangtok. The road to get there. Figuring out how to organize our own touring – including bartering for taxis and being delighted with the places we visited. Survived my first leech bites while exploring the zoo. Retail therapy which sometimes didn’t work out – no size 11 shoes to be had here. Early morning practices in the stadium outside our window.The snow lion with attitude in our hotel restaurant. I believe he may be related to the Gregories we saw in Tibet.
On the road to Kolkata (Malda and Murshidabad). Horrid roads and traffic jams (average speed 20 to 30 km per hour), abject poverty, crowds of people, subsistence farming using man/woman power and occasionally water buffalo. Heat and humidity. Remembering to appreciate what I have.
Kolkata. Indian Museum. Went on a city tour of Kolkata and discovered WHY you see groups of tourists following a guide like puppies. Guide had done all the research and gets you to the right places. He tells good stories to make it interesting. And (especially in a hot and humid place) arranges air-conditioned transport. Best piece of trivia. Most of the 1800s buildings are direct copies of British buildings. The High Court, however is a copy of a building in Brussels that then burnt down. They used the blueprints of the Kolkata building to rebuild it. So, says our guide, we have the original and they have the copy. Saw Mother Theresa house, a Jain Temple, Monument to the Black Hole of Calcutta. And the Idol Makers lane, where artisans were busy creating the statues for the next big festival in October. Got to wander the lanes watching the process. Tea (twice) at Flury’s – an institution in Kolkata that the upper caste Indians have taken as their own. Purchased a notebook computer which turned into an afternoon of great memories. Happening upon the Hand Weavers of Murshidabad retail outlet right next door and finding the perfect hand woven and hand printed silk sari fabric.
Leaving on a jet plane. The wild taxi drive to the airport. A totally positive experience at the new airport, including the staff of the budget airline (IndiGo) going out of their way to fix a problem the booking agent made and sending us on our way. Security where ladies are scanned in a separate curtained booth and the gentlemen have the usual process. Apologies from the security person when he had to take away our knife that we had forgotten to put into checked luggage.

Impressions
Given that India is a strong economy with desires to move with the first world nations, I was taken aback by the lack of infrastructure and of what we would consider essentials of life. Clean drinking water does not exist for most. In the small villages we passed through, pumps brought water from the stagnant ponds nearby that had been defecated into by animals as well as humans, where women were washing clothes and where runoff from the rice paddies passed through piles of rotting garbage. Even in Kolkata there is no safe drinking water. There was no garbage removal; piles of garbage were allowed to rot where it was thrown or was removed by hand. Health care is available to those who can afford to pay for it; otherwise, diseases that we do not see in the western world run rampant:
• When we were in Gangtok it was national diarrhea recognition week – remember to add zinc to oral rehydration salts when treating enteric diarrhea (not lets work on clean drinking water for all)
• If you have leprosy, treatment is available (at a cost)
• A cough for two weeks is likely TB – get it checked out (if you can afford it)
Roads and housing were in poor to unusable condition. We got used to heavy traffic on narrow winding roads that were less than one lane wide. Head on collisions or buses rolling off into ditches or hitting trees were an everyday occurrence. Many people living on the streets of the villages as well as the cities, because it was a better living than to remain in the rural villages of even more impoverished areas.
The sense of class/caste remains very much in evidence. The rich can educate their children well so they can have good well paying jobs and/or move to a western country. The poor cannot afford school fees so their children can never hope to improve their lives.
I will certainly never forget my time in India. It isn’t an experience I wish to repeat.
Actually, it felt more like one more week in Tibet and then a week travelling through the plains of India. The people around Darjeeling and also the entire state of Sikkim are predominantly Nepali or Tibetan. Food and architecture reflected what we had seen in Tibet and indeed many of the monasteries that were destroyed during the Cultural Revolution were transferred to these areas. Even the dominant language is Nepali rather than English or Hindi. The other dominant presence is the British Raj. Uniforms of the police and the army are reminiscent of 1930s Britain and were worn with pride by all. We listened to morning practices in the stadium of a very British sounding pipe and drum band. The best schools remain those set up by the British and all students wear formal uniforms, including blazer, tie and polished black shoes for the upper classmen.
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Stopping for breakfast on the side of the road. 127 watchers in 5 minutes. |
What I wish to remember:
Darjeeling. Tea estates, incredible mountain scenery, Himalayan Mountain Institute. Trekking along the Nepal border (literally criss crossing it along the 8 km hike uphill and then back) in Singalia National Park including breakfast, tea break(s) and lunch with local people. Discovering Ava Devi’s thread paintings.
Red panda (actually a raccoon not a panda |
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Cool spider webs were everywhere |
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Himalayan bear. No cage around his enclosure. Hmm |
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Tenziing Norgay (Hillary's companion sumiting Everest) set up the Himalayan Mountain Institute in Darjeeling. |
Heading down to check out tea plantation. Hey, it is monsoon season. |
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"Man of the East" by Ava Devi. Hand stitched with fine silk thread. Got to see many of her original art. |
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Hiking. Sorry, tree is sleepy today |
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The leaves that make hand made Nepali paper |
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Photo outside Chitray monastery. Cal is standing in Nepal I am still in India |
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Prayer flags being raised |
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Chitray = houses made of woven bamboo walls |
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Army base camp just before lunch. We had to officially leave India and reenter Nepal Yes it was ok to take the photo |
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Megma "Mother of Clouds" (where we had lunch with a local family because the tea house was closed) |
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Meet and Greet at Hotel Elgin |
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Mark, doing what comes naturally (taking photos) |
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Bruce looking exceedingly dashing Just rotate 90 degrees |
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Keith |
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View from our window the last morning. Yes the Himalayas were there all along |
Gangtok. The road to get there. Figuring out how to organize our own touring – including bartering for taxis and being delighted with the places we visited. Survived my first leech bites while exploring the zoo. Retail therapy which sometimes didn’t work out – no size 11 shoes to be had here. Early morning practices in the stadium outside our window.The snow lion with attitude in our hotel restaurant. I believe he may be related to the Gregories we saw in Tibet.
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Cobra near the Tibetan institute that we almost walked past |
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Still getting requests for photos |
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The official protector of Gangtok |
On the road to Kolkata (Malda and Murshidabad). Horrid roads and traffic jams (average speed 20 to 30 km per hour), abject poverty, crowds of people, subsistence farming using man/woman power and occasionally water buffalo. Heat and humidity. Remembering to appreciate what I have.
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Calypso's mirror was shattered as she was passed on the right. Yup, that close |
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Watching us leave Siliguri The "hat" is actually his hair wound around and around |
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Calypso's light taking a beating. By now we just self manage. Cal's Leatherman, Jason (assisting) and Jordan doing the actual repair and Tina providing advice. |
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crossing the river Ganges |
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Funeral Gats on the Ganges |
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Drying and storing your fuel source |
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Turmeric being harvested by hand |
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Independence day parade Local cadets |
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More locals wanting photos with us |
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Beautiful photo Just don't look too closely at the sludge.. |
Kolkata. Indian Museum. Went on a city tour of Kolkata and discovered WHY you see groups of tourists following a guide like puppies. Guide had done all the research and gets you to the right places. He tells good stories to make it interesting. And (especially in a hot and humid place) arranges air-conditioned transport. Best piece of trivia. Most of the 1800s buildings are direct copies of British buildings. The High Court, however is a copy of a building in Brussels that then burnt down. They used the blueprints of the Kolkata building to rebuild it. So, says our guide, we have the original and they have the copy. Saw Mother Theresa house, a Jain Temple, Monument to the Black Hole of Calcutta. And the Idol Makers lane, where artisans were busy creating the statues for the next big festival in October. Got to wander the lanes watching the process. Tea (twice) at Flury’s – an institution in Kolkata that the upper caste Indians have taken as their own. Purchased a notebook computer which turned into an afternoon of great memories. Happening upon the Hand Weavers of Murshidabad retail outlet right next door and finding the perfect hand woven and hand printed silk sari fabric.
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Flury's tea room established 1927 |
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Jain Temple apparently there is no conflict between over the top glitz and glitter with a religion that is totally non violent and ascetic |
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Idol Maker's lane Getting ready for the next big festival in October |
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Bamboo scaffolding tied with cloth. We saw this everywhere |
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Yes, you can still see typewriters everywhere. And cel phones |
Leaving on a jet plane. The wild taxi drive to the airport. A totally positive experience at the new airport, including the staff of the budget airline (IndiGo) going out of their way to fix a problem the booking agent made and sending us on our way. Security where ladies are scanned in a separate curtained booth and the gentlemen have the usual process. Apologies from the security person when he had to take away our knife that we had forgotten to put into checked luggage.

Impressions
Given that India is a strong economy with desires to move with the first world nations, I was taken aback by the lack of infrastructure and of what we would consider essentials of life. Clean drinking water does not exist for most. In the small villages we passed through, pumps brought water from the stagnant ponds nearby that had been defecated into by animals as well as humans, where women were washing clothes and where runoff from the rice paddies passed through piles of rotting garbage. Even in Kolkata there is no safe drinking water. There was no garbage removal; piles of garbage were allowed to rot where it was thrown or was removed by hand. Health care is available to those who can afford to pay for it; otherwise, diseases that we do not see in the western world run rampant:
• When we were in Gangtok it was national diarrhea recognition week – remember to add zinc to oral rehydration salts when treating enteric diarrhea (not lets work on clean drinking water for all)
• If you have leprosy, treatment is available (at a cost)
• A cough for two weeks is likely TB – get it checked out (if you can afford it)
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Slogan for the recent Krishna festival: Don't kill the girl child" |
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Poster from the early 1970s Still common practice today. |
Roads and housing were in poor to unusable condition. We got used to heavy traffic on narrow winding roads that were less than one lane wide. Head on collisions or buses rolling off into ditches or hitting trees were an everyday occurrence. Many people living on the streets of the villages as well as the cities, because it was a better living than to remain in the rural villages of even more impoverished areas.
The sense of class/caste remains very much in evidence. The rich can educate their children well so they can have good well paying jobs and/or move to a western country. The poor cannot afford school fees so their children can never hope to improve their lives.
I will certainly never forget my time in India. It isn’t an experience I wish to repeat.
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